Shopping for cool-weather hiking and climbing

With two upcoming trips to plan out, in late-November and late-December,  I realized I needed to think about buying some cooler-weather clothes. Not because we don’t have enough clothing to add layers, but because I want to be mindful of safety and performance. In the past, we’ve always traveled relatively light, since our vacations are usually out west during the month of July. So our typical threads have included lightweight cotton tanks and shorts, hiking socks, hiking boots, and a wide-brim hat to shield us from the sun. Before that, we were hiking in sneakers and regular socks, but after the sole peeled off my poor sneakers, we started looking into proper footwear. Then we figured we should invest in proper socks, since we often hike long hours. And before we knew it, we were getting ourselves into climbing, which required other specific, non-negotiable needs.

But I digress…

Both of us hail from the state of New York, so we’re familiar with bundling up to shovel the driveway or trek across town. But when it comes to the right clothing for outdoor activities, I have to admit I was pretty clueless. After reading multiple sites, I realized the value in choosing the right clothes to reduce dangers such as hypothermia due to sweat-drenched cotton layers, and learning to pack only what you need – which isn’t a lot if you do it right. (When you even consider the amount of water you take on a hike, weight is everything.) So I started searching the Internet for tips on how to dress for hiking and climbing in cooler climates and started to build my knowledge of base layers, mid-layers, softshells and raingear, as well as different fabrics, fabric weight, zipper placement, and the whole wide world of…brands. Now anyone who knows me well knows I am not a brand snob (in fact, I am pretty firmly opposed to wearing clothes that aim to turn me into a walking advertisement), so this might raise some eyebrows, but I only mean I am learning about the different brands to understand the research behind their gear, as well as reviews for garments and accessories offered by each company. This was pretty eye-opening (and overwhelming), because I soon realized most brands offer pretty much everything, but each brand more or less specializes in only a few. I suppose this can be said about almost anything, but it helped me focus my searches depending on the item I was purchasing.  

The main thing I learned, much to the relief of my bank account, is I don’t need a lot of winter-specific clothes. It seems like heavier items only become necessary as you hike and climb in higher, much colder conditions (hard-core alpine, for example). So in preparation for my vacations, which will probably be in the mild 40s during the day, I think some basic layering will be fine. What has been helpful to me is climbing magazines, because most of them include gear reviews. The reviews in Trek & Mountain magazine, for example, outline items under specific categories (different layers, climbing shoes, harnesses, sleeping bags, etc.), with the main features and highlights listed for each item, overall value for the price, whether or not there’s a male/female counterpart available, and a brief summary on what to look for when selecting an item to suit your individual needs and preferences (pack weight/size, breathability, fit underneath a harness, ability to pull zippers while wearing gloves…). And the best part is for now, I can purchase items that will serve dual purposes. Any clothes I get that are suitable for climbing, for example, will be comfortable for hiking and scrambling too.

After long, intense searches, I think I purchased everything we need – and I didn’t have to spend a lot of money to get everything. Granted, this required a lot of price-comparing, discount-code searching, and in-store visits to check sizing, but it was well worth it. We each have a base layer, a wicking long-sleeve shirt, a lightweight fleece, a softshell, and a waterproof shell. And if this isn’t enough to keep us warm, we certainly aren’t working hard enough.

Oh – and pants. I guess it wouldn’t be appropriate to show up without pants.

If you want to compare gear and read some good reviews before buying, check out www.trailspace.com

Here are some good sites for discount gear (most offer free shipping if you spend ~$50):

• www.sunnysports.com Allows you to exchange sizes until you find the right one - and they'll pay return ship! (You pay return ship if you just don't want the product.)
• www.theclymb.com Advertised as 'by membership/invitation only,' but it's free to join and each day highlights a few brands with limited stock. The sale for each featured brand generally lasts a few days. Prices are tough to beat.
• www.altrec.com There a lot of great deals, but sizes and stock are often limited.
• http://www.backcountry.com/ Great prices and huge selection.
• http://www.mountainproject.com/ Check out the Dirtbag Deals.
• www.travelcountry.com Great sales and the only physical store near me. They'll price-match too, at least at the store.
• http://www.sierratradingcompany.com/ Great discounts and close-out deals.
• http://www.moosejaw.com/ Great variety and lots of sale items.
• http://www.campmor.com/ Very competitive sales.
• http://www.o2gearshop.com/ Closeout deals that are hard to beat. Limited sizes and selection, but great prices!

Beta blocker

For me, the gym is many things; it is a source of release, focus, passion, excitement, exertion, and pain. And of course, frustration. Frustration at my physical limitations as I learn, struggle, fail, build, and grow. Recently, I found a new frustration: unwanted beta.

I do understand the need and value of beta, which I believe is absolutely necessary, especially at my level, but I didn't understand the concept of beta spraying until I was at the receiving end of it on Sunday. Because I'm relatively new to climbing, I've grown accustomed to hearing friends shout out tips and point out holds from below as I labor up a new or difficult route, but there are two routes that have angered me lately because they have found ways to defeat me, and the added cacophony of beta is only making it worse.

The mental side of climbing is, in many ways, more difficult for me to overcome than the physical challenges. Probably because I enjoy climbing so much it is fun no matter how difficult it is. It feels great, and I enjoy the rewards of exhaustion and satisfaction when I complete a climb - even if unsuccessfully or with some hangdogging (<-- I learned a new word). BUT, when I feel defeated by something I KNOW I can do, there is a greater level of frustration that elevates at the smallest provocation.

I tied in on Sunday to try, while I was fresh and focused, one of the routes that has been troubling me, but immediately I felt blood rush to my ears as I heard the unmistakable sounds of beta innocently being tossed my way. The worst part is I know it was meant to be friendly and helpful, but I realized at that moment how incredibly frustrating it can be when you have a strong desire to prove something to yourself - even if for no good reason. I was moving slowly, deliberately, thinking out each step, each hold, each turn of my body, but once it hit me, I couldn't get my focus back. The surge of anger and frustration coursed through my veins and made it difficult for me to care if I finished. I made it up without any problems, but there was no feeling of elation or satisfaction. Instead I felt cheated. I really wanted to do this for myself. Was I being melodramatic? Of course I was, but there are things in life you can't explain, things that are beyond reason and maturity. And this was one of those things.


Obviously I can do it again (well, unless they set a new route before my next visit), but that started my day at the gym on such a bad note. I explained my frustration to my belayer (poor Howie), and apologized through gritted teeth, only to be introduced to a clever new term: beta blocking (note: this is not an actual accepted term, but I sure like it). Howie explained that if a climber receives unwanted beta, it is the belayer's job to block it, thus acting as a beta blocker. (Come on, you have to admit that's pretty good.)

It took some time for me to get back into my zone and climb again, for my blood to settle back into its usual pace and flow, but you wanna know how I blew off some steam? I bouldered. And you know what?

I kind of enjoyed it.

Learning to like - how do you say? - ah yes...bouldering.

Pretty much from the moment I stepped foot into the gym, I was loathe to approach the bouldering section. Maybe it's because it doesn't look as inviting as the top-rope area, or maybe it's because there's a regular group of bouldering groupies that camp out around the area like a pack of wolves around a bloody steak, but I just avoid it at all costs. You might imagine my joy, then, when a gym acquaintance urged us to boulder. It was Friday night, after a long week of work, and I just didn't feel excited for it. But after some heavy coaxing, we conceded, headed over, and I warily eyed the cheerfully colored boulder problems that would soon prove to be just that.

We chose what is supposedly among the easiest problems, a V0. It looked simple enough (in design, not necessarily execution), as it merely ran up a short wall and under an overhang. Problem is my upper body strength sucks right now, so it was harder than it should've been to hold on to the macaroni-shaped grips (which felt awkward in my hands) while trying to fight gravity. It wasn't that bad, and I thought I'd completed the problem until I landed and was informed, much to my chagrin, that I didn't complete the final moves. (Ah well, no way I was going to do it again right away!) My elbows, especially the right one, have been hurting a lot, so I need to work in some recovery exercises. I also noticed some soreness in my shoulders, so I also need to include resistance-band work (a la Beth Rodden) to prevent injury. Gotta keep strong and healthy if I want to do this for a long time.

So anyway, I will grit my teeth and force myself to add some boulder work here and there with the hope that I'll build strength and technique to add to my top-roping. For now, I'm nursing a bruised knee that oddly resembles Lotsa's nose (from Toy Story III. It looks even more like it in person.) It's uncanny, really.

All geared up

Today is an exciting day! I'm finally in possession of all the basic gear I need to climb...indoors, anyway! This means I no longer have to donate money to the gym to rent a harness that leaves bruises on my inner thighs. =)

My shoes were first, and I love them so far. Tip: if you're shopping for your first pair of rock shoes, please make sure you try them on and choose a pair that fits you well. Depending on your salesperson, there's a good chance you'll be encouraged to buy a pair that is a pretty expensive and a few sizes smaller than your typical shoe size. They told me if they hurt, go even smaller. They said I should be in pain. Don't listen to them! You are definitely not climbing at a level where super tight or super aggressive shoes will be beneficial. In fact, I don't think anyone ought to wear shoes that make them bleed. Avoid the extremely downturned/curved, pointed shoes and look for apair with a good sole and sturdy rubber. The pricier shoes are usually made with less rubber, so you'll wear through them quick if you don't know what you're doing. I'm new enough to climbing that I can vouch for the fact that you will be rough on your poor shoes as you learn to climb with better technique. With time, you'll learn what you like and don't like in a shoe and you can make a more informed decision with your next pair. For the perfect fit, get a pair that fits like a snug pair of socks. No extra room, but no pain either. Laces or Velcro? Depends on which feels better to you; typically the lace-ups can be pulled tighter for a perfect fit, but mine are Velcro and are great. Leather or synthetic? Either, but leather will stretch a bit and synthetic usually won't. Socks or no socks? I say socks, but I have to wear mine without because they'd be too tight with socks. A lot of great climbers wear socks!

So anyway, I've got my shoes. Last Friday I picked up my gorgeous belay device and a shiny carabiner to go with it. I love them - I know it sounds crazy, but I do! (And I should, as they will inevitably be burdened with holding our lives in their little...metal parts.) And last, but not least, I got my harness today! Now for some quick info on choosing the rest of your gear. From what I saw in all my research, it seems like most harnesses will perform relatively the same and will last the same number of years, depending on how frequently you climb, fall, etc. The main difference will be fit and comfort, so try them on, see if you like the features (adjustable leg loops, number of gear loops, single or double waist adjustments, or even just price). Mostly, it all comes down to personal preference. I'm not promoting brands here, so I won't specify which one I got, but visit some stores, try some on, and once you find the one you like, search online for a good deal. After that, be diligent about checking the condition of your gear to make sure you are always climbing safely. I read an article about a great climber that died after his belay loop wore out and failed. It seems like such an easy thing to do, check for wear, but he knew it was unsafe and climbed in it anyway (he was waiting for his new harness to arrive). The article saddened me because it was such a preventable tragedy.

Now regarding your belay device, look for something simple like an ATC device and just make sure you know how to use it. There's no point in getting a fancy tool if you don't know what it does! I'm still learning about the different uses for different types of carabiners, but I went with a screw-lock one because you definitely don't want your carabiner to accidentally pop open while you're belaying.

So I'm ready to go, and I really can't wait to try out my harness and rest in relief, not cringing because the leg loops are cutting off my circulation. Friday can't come fast enough!

Will work to climb

Ok, I need to win the lotto - fast! Why can't I find a hobby that doesn't require anything but my body? Nude running or something? But really, I love photography and want a new camera (drooling over some new Canons I saw), but my latest focus is on improving my climbing. I also want to grow that into mountaineering and ice climbing, which aren't any cheaper! So what to do? We seem to take more and more trips each year, and those equal lots of vacation time too.

First things first; we got our climbing shoes and harnesses, about to commit to the climbing gym by getting our memberships (rock block was a great way to test out the waters), and have taken a wonderful rock 101 course with Fox Mountain Guides (in Brevard, NC) to confirm that I definitely LOVE this sport. Our guide, Karsten DeLap, was incredible. Never could I have imagined learning from someone so knowledgable, skilled, and so confident about his ability to help us climb and learn (someday) to climb on our own. I can't recommend him (and FMG) enough. With that said, I'll blog another time about how to choose a guide, which you should not take lightly. There are a lot of people who love to climb, but only a handful of them are qualified to do so. Watch out.

Anyway, I guess the point of my rambling is first to lament that we didn't win PowerBall, but next to come up with a plan of action so we can go out and climb again soon. I think I'll put all my money and energy into climbing, less eating out. That seems to be the only activity that I can bear to trade for food. In the meantime, I need to learn to boulder (and learn to love to boulder) because my strength needs work. I will continue to read the climbing book we received during our rock 101 class, and I will watch on YouTube the greatest climbers tackling routes I hope to visit one day. And I'll continue playing the lotto.

Planning our December trip

It's that time of year again! I can't believe I'm already thinking about airfare, lodging, and the whole world as my potential playground for December. Eek. This is something pretty new for my family; we've traveled across the USA together, visiting our beautiful National Parks, but we've recently adopted the idea of spending the winter holidays away from home. Last December was incredible (I'll blog about it at another time). We stayed in Kanab, UT, and visited the much-anticipated Coyote Buttes North. My dad first introducted me to the surreal area known as The Wave, which requires a permit that can only be won through a lottery, by mailing me a newspaper article about it. Somehow, I managed to win the lottery not once, but twice! First time I visited, eight of the 10 in-person spots had been given out, and the next group they selected had four members. So the group chose to wait and try again the next day, and the next number they pulled was ours! (Quick info: they literally do a ball lottery where numbers are randomly selected. They have an online lottery that selects 10 spots, as well as an in-person lottery that selects another 10 spots. Twenty permited hikers per day, max.) So last December 24, a group of seven of us (four passes won online, the other three in person) followed the photo landmark map to the curving mass of colorful sandstone. Honest, there are photos of landmarks and arrows guiding you the right way. More on this later.

But anyway, it is time to decide where we're going next. Howie and I spent last summer in Yosemite (best trip ever!), and this past July was spent hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains, then hiking and climbing in the Pisgah National Forest and surrounding area. My first pick for this December is Moab, UT, so we can further explore Arches National Park and actually see a lot more of Canyonlands. Howie and I visited Canyonlands back in 2008, but we barely scraped the surface of what that park has to offer. We really only did one or two hikes (Upheaval Dome and Mesa Arch, I believe). Anyway, I know there's much more to see, so I hope this location wins out. However, I'm open to other ideas. (It didn't escape my attention that there would also be an opportunity to climb if we visit Moab...)

So where will we go? My sister mentioned Mammoth Lakes. A cabin or lodge, maybe, and some snow activities? Could be fun. My other sister mentioned camping in Death Valley. I will have to look into that to see if that's a good idea. I will do some research, and stock up on some good base layers, and see what we find. The key will be getting everyone to agree!